The New Taqueria El Atoradero Serves Destination-Worthy Drunk Food

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Posted on: July 19, 2017
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Denisse Chavez— among my preferred chefs– has opened a concession within a piece of nightlife genuine estate, a bar and dining establishment called in the burgeoning Third Avenue passage of the Gowanus area.

Chavez started her profession commanding a huge, floor-mounted stewpot in the middle of a where she was making her own blue tortillas and including southern Mexican primary courses, but keeping carnitas and other antojito fillings the focus. How does she adapt Mexican cooking right out of the Boogie-Down to a mixed drink bar near Brooklyn’s Venetian canals?

Robert Sietsema The Parklife place is tough to find from the street in this previous hardscrabble area of re-purposed factories and storage facilities. A high wooden fence welcomes you with a small blackboard announcing the presence of a bar. Inside, a courtyard with a beach-y feel features picnic tables and a bar in a shipping container. Inside the properties there’s another bar and an L-shaped counter devoted to Chavez’s newspot.The menu is lively, focused on tacos, guac and chips, ceviche, nachos, and burritos. The lineup of fillings has to do with the like it is at her other place, but the food has been customized for barroom consumption. To puts it simply, it’s been transformed into exceptional drunk food. Take the nachos ($13): In the taqueria’s signature variation, small french fries prepared crisper than normal are mobbed with black beans, guacamole, crema, jack cheese, and queso seco, for a triple-dairy whammy. One bite and you’re connected, even without the carne asada add-on ($3).

The guacamole at Taqueria El Atoradero flows like the green waters of the nearby canal, and there’s a big dab of it next to the well-dressed burrito ($14). Of the 9 filling choices (carne asada, suadero, chicken tinga, chorizo and potato, grilled fish, grilled shrimp, purslane poblano, mushroom, and carnitas), we selected the chicken tinga, a chipotle-laced Pueblan classic that gave the wrap a prodigiously hot kick.The tacos

are made with Chavez’s typical blue-corn tortillas, which are a little thicker than regular tortillas, but thinner than gorditas, that make them perfect for usage in single-tortilla tacos (4 for $13). We loved the carnitas taco, each morsel rimmed with fat, however loved the salted and starchy chorizo-and-potato much more. The fish was fine, but we didn’t just like the purslane poblano, since the purslane produced a rather dull filling.The ceviche was identified and happily easy, equipped with octopus and shrimp and served with chips made from those blue corn tortillas. Conserve for costs maybe a little on the high side, the food is differentiated, and I’ll be returning soon for another taste of those trashy french-fry nachos. The drinks deserve buying too, particularly a frozen Scotch-and-ginger mixed drink that easily withstood Chavez’s 3 newly made salsas.

  • Tacos Nachos Ceviche

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